The Pizza Therapy Forum and Pasta Therapy Forum

[dfandreatta]

I read with great interest the information on using less yeast, then refrigerating the dough overnight. What are the results compared with using the "standard" amount of yeast? What makes the difference here? Is it just a matter of allowed less yeast to work longer, or does a lower amount of yeast make a difference in the dough?

And while I am on the subject.... what about adding some gluten to the mix? Better, or not?
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"Papa Don"
Apollo Beach, Florida

[tgnytg]

Papa Don,

I make pizza in my kitchen as a hobby, but I also bake bread. I am not an expert nor a professional, but I think I can help with your questions.

Putting the dough in the fridge overnight (or longer) has become a common procedure for artisan bread making. It is often referred to as "retarded fermentation" since the dough is too cold for the yeast to actively ferment at anywhere near a "normal" (room temperature) rate.

Also, the reduced amount of yeast (and no added table sugar in the dough) slows the rise (fermentation) once the dough is returned to room temperature. A long, slow, cool (room temp, not proof temp) fermentation is also a standard practice for artisan bread baking.

What happens with a retarded fermentation is that enzymes in the flour naturally break down some of the starch into sugars (which feed the yeast). The slow fermentation allows bacteria (that occur naturally in flour) to operate on the dough, in concert with the reduced amount of yeast, to produce lactic and acetic acids (a tiny touch of sourdough). The sugars from enzymes, the acids from bacteria, and the alcohol from yeast improve both the flavor and texture of the dough, and enhance browning in the oven.

Adding gluten will have the same effect as using flour with higher protein. The dough will be more elastic and extensible, but may become harder to work and tougher in the finished crust. You didn't mention what flour you use now, but I use King Arthur All Purpose (11.7% protein if I remember right) and add about 10% whole wheat flour for my dough.

As an added benefit of slow rising, the flour becomes better hydrated and more gluten is developed by just letting the dough sit. Whether it is in the fridge or not, just resting the dough longer passively develops the gluten. It saves you kneading time and effort.

So the short answer to increase hydration and gluten development is for the baker to relax, just let the dough sit there longer. Again, easily accomplished through a long, slow, cool fermentation.

Now, whether or not you want to use practices from bread bakers when you make pizza dough is entirely your decision. For many home pizzaiolos, retarded and/or slow fermentation is overkill. For me, they are my normal process steps.

I usually make my dough two days in advance. I let the wet dough (I withhold a third of the flour for the first rest) autolyse (fancy word for just sit still) which helps the flour fully soak up all that water. Then add the rest of the flour. I then knead the dough only until it starts to become smooth. Then I rest it for an hour or so at room temperature (again letting the flour hydrate) before I put it into the fridge to retard fermentation.

On day two I remove the dough and seperate it into single pizza sized dough balls, oil up the balls and return to the fridge in individual containers (I use 3 cup Ziploc bowls). Four or five hours before my stone starts pre-heating, I put the bowls on the kitchen counter so the dough is room temperature when I am ready to shape it into crust.

The crumb of my pizza crust is very light (not dense) in texture and the crust has a wheaty, hearty bread-like flavor. My pizza is chewy without being tough. How much of that is due to less yeast and fridge time? I haven't done the experiments to find out, I just am pleased with the end result.

Let me know if this helps answer your questions. Like I said, I just bake as a hobby.

Other information sources you may wish to tap for answers:

- Apizza Shoals (Brian Spangler) on this PizzaTherapy.com forum and is a legendary bread and pizza craftsman - I am willing to bet that Albert has him as an interview for "Legends of Pizza, volume 2"

- Peter Reinhart's book "The Bread Baker's Apprentice" has two sections, the first is all about the bread/dough making process - it is packed with good info (he is on "Legends of Pizza, volume 1") - I don't yet have "American Pie" but will very soon

Good luck on your quest for pizza perfection.

Cheers, Tom

PS Tonight is pizza night at my house and you're invited, but I'm afraid it would be a long commute for you.

[dfandreatta]

A very thorough and informative answer! I thank you for that. The entire breadmaking thing is amazing to me, since there is so much that goes on inside the dough that most of us (or at least, I) don't know about. Thanks for that detailed explanation.

I'll be taking my pizza making a step farther now and using the slow fermentation method to see how it changes things.

Thanks again!

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"Papa Don"
Apollo Beach, Florida